Wednesday, May 16, 2012

@font-face

The last couple of years has seen a really great development in the use of fonts for web pages. Although the "@font-face" rule was introduced with CSS2, it was removed from later CSS upgrades but reintroduced with CSS3. Now a web designer can serve up fonts with web pages just like a print document. Not that it is that easy, but as long as you follow certain steps, it works very well.
There are a couple of issues, however.

1. Your font has to be "converted" to a set of formats that will work across different browsers.

The File Formats:

.eot (Embedded Open Type)
.ttf (True Type Font)
.woff (Web Open Font Format)
.svg (Scaleable Vector Graphics)

2. Legally, you have to "own" the fonts.

This is a real problem for some. I think that as a designer, as long as you purchased and have legal possession of a font you should be able to use it in your work. However, some companies, especially font foundries, have raised objections to the  distribution of fonts via the web. Linotype has "blacklisted" Helvetica when I tried to upload it to Font Squirrel. Adobe has also come out against using their fonts for websites. Noted type designers Hoefler & Frere-Jones are very much in favor of the concept but they are against the current "delivery" system of @font-face.

3. Online conversion services are free and very useful in preparing your files.


I've used Font Squirrel and Font2Web with very good results.

 

4. Add the CSS to your style sheet

Font Squirrel and Font2Web will provide you with the converted fonts and a "webfont kit" that includes the necessary CSS to add to your style sheet. Both services are very helpful in addition to numerous sites that provided tutorial steps.

5. Helpful links

http://www.font2web.com
http://www.fontsquirrel.com
http://www.font-face.com

Some useful information:
A Wikipedia article
Paul Irish's article

Monday, May 14, 2012

Building a Wooden Boat: Part 6

Bresthook, glued in place
This post has some photos of the bresthook, quarter blocks, and also the construction of the inwales through the process of scarfing.

Other pieces needed to be made are the inwales. These are pieces that run along the inside of the gunwales, at the tops of the frames. The photos show the clamped pieces long enough to make a 16 foot piece. The two pieces glued together are cut at a 12:1 slant. It is important to clamp them down to a fixed surface before gluing and clamping them together, otherwise they would slide apart.

Scarfing long pieces
Below is the port side quarter-block. The two quarter-blocks and the breasthook required meticulous cutting and shaping because of the multiple angles required to fit into the rear corners and bow.


Next: Installing the inwales and guards

Monday, April 23, 2012

Sebring 1972-2012, Part 1

This past March my brother Peter and I returned to Sebring to see the 12 hour endurance race for the first time in 40 years. I remember going at least 3 times in the early mid-1970s. I don't remember who went each time, but I know that my brothers and I went in addition to a couple of my college dorm buddies. Below is a photo of my brothers Tom and Mark, and myself (with the hat).
Can't quite see the make of the car, but it belonged to one of my roomates, Ron Braun. We camped out with extremely primitive gear. It was a hellish night, with idiots continually driving around on minibikes.

A view of the pits. Very little has changed regarding fencing and safety. It is quite a bit different from the St. Pete Grand Prix where there is a wire catch-fence ever-present between the cars and the crowds.

 My brother, Peter, had a 35mm camera with a telephoto, so he was the photographer. Here pictured is a Corvette with a Confederate flag motif. #57 was driven by Tampa's Dave Heinz and Robert Johnson. Finished 4th overall and 1st in the GT class. Impressive for a big, heavy production car.

 
This is the #33 Alfa Romeo T33 of Vaccarelli and Hezemanns. It finished 3rd overall.

 This Ferrari 312, #4,  of Clay Reggazoni and Brian Redman did not finish due to the battery and a fire.

The Porsche #68, a 914/6, was a GT 2.5 class entry and finished 28th. A total of 61 cars started the race including Camaros, Mustangs, and believe it or not, a Chevy Nova.

The eventual winner, the Ferrari #2, 312B, was driven by Mario Andretti and Jacky Ickx.


Next: Sebring 1972-2012, Part 2



Sunday, April 15, 2012

Building a Wooden Boat: Part 5

The next few pictures show the trimming of the excess frame and planking. I had to draw lines along the side of the planking with the aid of a batten, to make a nice clean curve. There is not a lot to say about this process other than that it is slow and painstaking to make sure you're not cutting anything wrong. "Measure twice, cut once." That's what they say.

The first photo shows me cutting through one of the sides. I used a combination of my cordless jigsaw and my indispensable Japanese saw. I really couldn't have made much of any progress in this project without the $18.o0 Japanese saw I bought at Loew's.




The next two photos just show the boat with the sides (planking) trimmed off. The boat now has the look and the lines that suggest what the finished design should look like.



Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Hating Typefaces


I love type. I love all kinds of typefaces. There are typefaces that I feel very comfortable using. They seem to fit my design plan. These are typefaces that don't get in the way of a concept or a design. The typefaces, or fonts, as they are commonly referred to these days, that I use the most are typically classic sans serifs or serifs. I have changed my typographic preferences over the years. Some typefaces can grow on you. I've known of the font Hobo from from very early in my career. I joked that if I ever used it, it would be my last day of work. When I began to teach design history I learned that Hobo was a typeface from the Art Nouveau movement. Knowing that fact completely changed how I view it. No, I didn't suddenly start using it, I just have greater respect for it.

In the March/April Communication Arts, Allen Haley has a very good article about how some fonts or typefaces are hated. He provides a lot of great background and historical perspective. Some fonts have had a great advantage or maybe disadvantage because they are pre-installed on computers. The point I'd like to make, and wish Mr. Haley had made, is that it really matters who is using, and over using, a particular font. Most people would never dream of paying money for a font. Why should they? Amateurs can just use whatever is available. Only designers pay good money for a typeface. When I see something set in Times New Roman, I figure that it was the user's default font. They didn't bother to change it to something else. The same is true of Arial, the sans serif default counterpart. Comic Sans is something different. It is a choice, not a default. A mock-up of a brochure that I was given by a client just yesterday used Comic Sans. They were just trying to show me in a rough way, what they wanted. The person who put the mock-up together was not a designer. She just knew how to put something together in Word. I should have asked, for research purposes, why she picked Comic Sans. It wasn't the right moment and she might have taken it the wrong way. The point is that she made a conscious choice of Comic Sans instead of just leaving the default font in place. Could it be that the non-designer thinks the selection of a font like Comic Sans elevates a "design" out of the ordinary? It is a reasonable explanation. She made a decision to use Comic Sans but would have been better off just leaving Times New Roman or Arial in place.

Design students on the other hand, commit a grave sin when they use a default font. Design is all about making decisions. Dozens and even hundreds of decisions are considered, made and remade as we go through the design process. Type choice is one of them. But designers have to develop an "eye" for typeface of font selection and use. This is what I like to refer to as your personal design aesthetic. It takes time to develop. I used to not care much for Myriad Pro. It is one of those digital age fonts. It is on just about everyone's computer. It is an OpenType font, so that makes it all the more usable. In a typography class I was teaching, I contrasted and compared Frutiger, Helvetica, Myriad, Franklin Gothic, Folio, and Arial. My class had to be able to identify each typeface from seeing only a couple of letters or maybe a whole word. We scrutinized every minute detail of a group of sans serif typefaces that most people would not see. That kind of close examination led me to gain a greater appreciation for Myriad Pro. I have the complete family, from light to bold, condensed to extended.

I've been teaching design for over ten years. Often it takes a while for a student designer to develop their personal design aesthetic. There is a maturing process that has to take place. As students are exposed to the subject of design and the design process, they hopefully gain an appreciation for typography. Typeface preference and selection is paramount. So often I'll see students running to "dafont.com" or "1001freefonts.com" to find a font before they have even sketched anything. I'll see a student using Comic Sans, or Papyrus simply because it isn't Times New Roman. I believe that this is out of laziness. They want something different. When you are new to design and you search through a computer's font menu and see Papyrus, it looks different. Out of the ordinary. When you are the treasurer of the homeowners association and you are putting together a flyer for a potluck event, picking Lithos seems like a great idea. Fourth grade teachers, all across the country are using Comic Sans for project handouts. And guess what? I can't spend time caring about that.

My greater concern is that a design student chooses one of "those" hated fonts because it looks good to them. A design student has to invest time immersing themselves in design. Study design, read trade journals instead of Facebook, become knowledgeable about design history. People out there in the world choose Lithos, Papyrus, or Comic Sans only because those fonts are different from Times New Roman and Arial. They make a garage sale flyer seem less ordinary. Again, I don't care at all about that. That is going to happen and there is nothing anyone can do about it. We shouldn't "hate" fonts. We should hate laziness.

Building a Wooden Boat: Part 4


Scarfing
Planking is a term for the "skin" or outer surfaces of the boat. In the case of the San Juan Dory, my boat's design, the material is mahogany plywood and the sides and bottom are just one big plank for each. This means that I had to "scarf" plywood sheets together to make pieces long enough. Some builders use "butt" joints, but that seemed very crude to me, so I had to at least try scarfing first. Once again I scarfed some cheap plywood together to make a practice side piece. The first photo on the right shows the plywood cut on an 8:1 angle. I used a hand-held power planer. I didn't buy a real expensive one but at least it was a Craftman. Scarfing wasn't really as hard as I thought it would be. The overall width of the scarfs I cut were only about 3 to 4 inches wide.

The second photo shows my method of gluing the scarfed plywood together. I set up the large sheets end to end on sawhorses. I put a 2" x 12" board underneath with plastic sheeting separating things so that the epoxy would only glue what I wanted glued. Then I used a 2" x 4" board along the top of the scarf joint and used decking screws to clamp it all down. This method made unnecessary holes in the good plywood but those were easily filled with epoxy anyway when I cleaned up the joint.

Planking
Next I took the very long practice piece of scarfed plywood and laid it up against the framed boat to draw out the shape of the side planking. It was a lengthy process of marking the shape and cutting it with a lot of leeway before making it a more precise. The next several photos just show views of the planking sequence.






This photo shows the port side being clamped into position. I then screwed the side into the frames.



This photo shows me using a Japanese saw to trim the side planking. I didn't want to risk cutting it wrong, so no power tools.


Here both sides are on. This photo and the one before it show the drain holes on the bottom of the frames.


This is the bottom plank. It only required two sheets of the expensive plywood, whew.



And finally, this the boat with all planking complete. I now have to turn it over and get it off the ladder frame structure and dismantle all the jigging.


Next: Trimming Up and Preparing the Bottom

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Building a Wooden Boat: Part 3

Finishing up the frames
Setting up the frames also included the end, or stern. This is called the transom. In the design I am following, the transom frame is a complex construction that includes a "splashbox". The splashbox is designed to keep any backwash of water over the transom from coming into the boat. It is also designed to create a very strong structure for the motor to be mounted on. In the photo to the left, you can see the splashbox constructed out of cheap pine and plywood. I did this for practice and it was a good thing because I made a couple of critical errors. Because it was just cheap wood, and not the expensive mahogany, there was no real harm done. In the next photo below, you can see the stern of the boat with the transom and splashbox in place.




Putting in the chines

Once I got the frames and the stem in place, I had to install the chines. These are pieces that go along the length of the boat, where the bottom meets the sides. You can see the notches cut out in the corners of the frames.


The next photo gives another view of the chines along the sides of the boat. This view is from the front of the boat and shows how the chines meet at a point.



Cutting the drain holes
The last thing I'll show in this installment is the cutting of the drain holes. These allow water to drain the the stern of the boat either while running at speed or when washing it out on land. Because you are only cutting out a semi-circle, you have to clamp another piece of wood to the bottom of the frame and then use a circle-cutting bit to cut out the 1.5" diameter hole. I cringed as I cut through each carefully constructed frame, hoping not to make a mistake. I don't need to show more photos of the drain holes here because in subsequent photos, you'll see them more clearly.

Next: Part 4: Planking the sides and bottom